March 27th

First Session Back in the Water

Getting back in the water after what feels like forever always hits differently. It might have only been two weeks, but today, it felt like I was starting from scratch. First wave, straight to the head. Got caught off guard, freaked out a little, and then let every other good wave roll by.

I know how the lineup works, but when others aren’t following the rules, sometimes you just have to go for it. Today was not one of those days. Instead, I sat, hesitated, and second-guessed every opportunity. Eventually, I had to take the paddle of shame back to shore, fully defeated.

But then there’s the post-surf shower. No matter how the session goes, rinsing off that salt and resetting always makes it better. Today wasn’t my day, but there’s always another session, another wave, and another chance to shake it off.

Keen for better sessions to come and for the weather to finally clear after this long, rainy season in Bali. Ready for sunshine, clean waves, and days that remind me why I love this so much.